Looking South Towards Ragged Point.
Sunday 30 December 2007
Forest at Ragged Point
There is some tropical bush growing below the cliffs on the North Side of ragged Point. There is no formal pathway down here, it was just a matter of clambering along through.
North side of Ragged Point
The coast North of ragged Point is still quite wild. We emerged from tropical forest in the lee of the cliffs, to be confronted by this cactus.
Deebles Point viewed from Ragged Point, looking South.
Deebles Point viewed from Ragged Point, looking South.
A stair has been cut into the rocks at Deebles, and it is possible to walk down to the platform cut into the rock halfway down the cliffs. This is a wonderful spot for a picnic, or to take a rod and line, and cast for snapper off the rocks.
Looking North toward Ragged Point
Looking towards Ragged Point from Deebles. The reason for its name is evident if you approach on foot from the South. The route follows the edge of the cliffs around to Ragged Point, and then up the hill across a field towards the lighthouse.
Aloes at Deebles
Also at Deebles, near the approach to Ragged Point, a windswept field is punctured by a group of aloes.
Grazing Cow at Deebles
Here is another of the curious juxtapositions one sees in Barbados.
At Deebles, the next point north of Kitridge, a cow grazes in a lush field, while in the background is a stand of cacti and a grove of coconut palms.
Barbados has a largish dairy herd, and sufficient milk is produced on the island to sustain a small dairy industry and one manufacturer of specialty cheeses.
Seabirds nest on the rocks
On top of "The Chair", the north side of Kitridge bay. A sharp eye spotted this seabird's egg nestled in the rocks. We did not move it or touch it. We assumed it to be the egg of some species or other of plover. It is only just on 1.5cm long, and could easily be mistaken for a pebble. Certainly, the bird concerned had made no effort to camoflage its nest.
Drystone Wall Kitridge Bay
Drystone wall on the Kitridge Bay. Walls like this can still be found on some parts of the island, however, there are few, if any, workmen with the skill to maintain them. This is a problem all over the world. In the UK, there are societies of volunteer drystone wallers, who give up their time and work for free to keep these important parts of the historic landscape in existence.
In Barbados the fabric of the historic agricultural landscape is steadily disappearing under the advance of concrete.
Kitridge Bay
Kitridge Bay. Note the cars parked on the clifftop, and the surfers venturing out into the Atlantic Ocean
Clifftop Vegetation
This is not a hill, or an ancient tumulus, but a grove of sea grape bushes.
The action of the wind has caused it to grow in this way.
View South towards Palmetto Bay from Kittridge
The view southwards. Note the lone palm tree, and the windswept vegetation. This side of the island gets the prevailing trade winds. During stormy weather, the seas can crash right up onto the cliff tops. Only the most hardy plants can grow here.
From Palmetto to Kitridge
The stretch of coast from Palmetto bay to Kitridge bay has some spectacular cliff top scenery. It is really beyond belief that this coastline has not got any legal protection, and nor is there a recognised coastal trail. Barbados only has 100km of coastline, it would be an easy matter indeed to institute a national Coastal path, and give it full legal protection. Unspoilt vistas like these are soon going to be increasingly rare, if the unregulated development we witnessed on our walk keeps up at the present rate.
One is tempted to call this walk "Vanishing Barbados", for that is certainly what is happening. Over the five years I have been visiting the island, I have seen a steady and sad decline in the state of the natural and visual environment of the island.
Vegetation on the Clifftops
The vegetation along the cliff tops is unusual to a Western eye. Desert adapted plants such as cacti grow next to salt loving halophytes and coconut palms. Little grows along the cliff edge due to the constant sea spray. The porosity of the limestone and lack of topsoil makes for these near desert conditions. In the winter, of course, there is frequent rain, but any plants that grow here need to be able to survive the harsh dry summers.
Vegetation
The vegetation along the cliff tops is unusual to a Western eye. Desert adapted plants such as cacti grow next to salt loving halophytes and coconut palms. Little grows along the cliff edge due to the constant sea spray. The porosity of the limestone and lack of topsoil makes for these near desert conditions. In the winter, of course, there is frequent rain, but any plants that grow here need to be able to survive the harsh dry summers.
North of Palmetto Bay
North of Palmetto Bay, the route continues along the cliff top. Here we passed a small cove with its lone coconut palm.
Palmetto Bay
The isolated and little visited Palmetto Bay. It is possible to descend to the bay, down a rocky staircase at the top of the bay. While we passed, the only person int he bay was a lone coconut harvester, gathering in hos crop to bring in to the city.
Our walk leads around the bay and then northwards along the cliff tops.
North of Bottom Bay
North of Bottom bay a spur of land juts out into the ocean. Beyond it is a small bay called Palmetto Bay.
Bottom Bay
Bottom bay, looking Southwards. Take the bus to Shrewsbury Chapel from Bridgetown South terminal - ask which bus will take you there, it should be the Belleplaine bus. From the Chapel, you can walk down to Bottom Bay.
Alternatively, you can begin this part of the walk at Sam Lords castle. The path to the beach at Sam Lords runs down the south side of the hotel grounds, and a wooden staircase lets you down the cliffs to the beach. This is possibly the best option, if you don't want a longish walk in the heat down a boring road.
Ruined Chattel House, Oistins
These tiny wooden houses were common in many former British colonies - there are also fine examples of a similar size, built at the same time, to be found in New Zealand. In Barbados, as in New Zealand, there are fewer and fewer of these delightful structures as the years and neglect take their toll. This example has probably already gone to Chattel House Heaven.
Fishmarket at Oistins
The Fishmarket at Oistins is a good place to visit for Fresh Fish. There is a popular cook-up here in the evenings. I can still taste the Oistins Fish, just thinking about it makes me want to hop on a plane..... Hot grilled dolphin....mmmm (its not really dolphin, but mahimahi)
View at Oistins
As you reach Oistins, you pass a pleasant grassed area alongside the road. The beach here is popular with the locals, who use it to take a morning "sea bath". You won't find many holidaymakers swimming here, so close to the fishing harbour.
Just South of Oistins
After a few meandering turns, the road joins Highway 7 just as it leads in toward Oistins. Some of the villas along this road are being restored, and just as one leads into Oistins, a rather fine example has recently had its corrugated iron roof replaced with the more traditional wooden slates - a far cooler option in the Barbados climate.
This image shows the view westwards from the main road. Properties lead right to the waters edge along this stretch, which explains why walking along the coast in this part of the island was so difficult.
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